Copyright @2012 Middle East Backpacking Guide

Ankara, the capital of Turkey, is usually overshadowed by its larger, more popular Turkish neighbor, Istanbul. However Ankara has much to offer backpackers and other travelers who are passing through, in a place where history and modernity collide. With a population of about 3.5 million people, and thousands of visitors every year, Ankara’s restaurants are keeping up with the growing number of hungry people looking for a good meal.

Despite being surrounded by mountains, Ankara is not too far from the sea and the capital boasts some of the freshest catch of seafood in the area. Kizilay, considered the main downtown area of Ankara, is a bustling area filled with tourists, students, and businessmen alike. Sakarya Street in this part of the city is infamous for its seafood restaurants that serve the best fish in the city year round. Fish dishes in a city that is not by the sea can get expensive, but the prices on Sakarya Street are not astronomical. Be sure to order a glass of raki, Turkey’s national drink, as it is traditionally consumed when eating seafood or appetizers.

Kizilay also caters to those looking to eat something other than fish. You can watch as the Turkish version of ravioli or dumplings (manti) is being made in the window of some restaurants before you sit down to eat one of these traditional Turkish dishes. There are also plenty of American fast food chains here, from McDonald’s to Starbucks, as well as fast food Turkish style. While Burger King and McDonald’s are popular among the Turkish youth, you may be looking for something else. Luckily, something new or different is not hard to find here. If you are looking for a cheap, but filling meal, try one of the several kumpir joints scattered throughout Kizilay. Kumpir is similar to a loaded baked potato, but you get to pick from a variety of toppings as the potato comes fresh out of the oven in front of you.

7th Street in the Bahcelievler neighborhood of Ankara is a place akin to Georgetown in Washington, D.C. Shops, cafes, and restaurants line the long street that is popular among locals. In the winter you can find vendors selling roasted chestnuts, a favorite in Turkey, while ice cream is popular in the hot summer months. Be sure to explore the side streets that connect to 7th street, as there are many restaurants and even fortune tellers. If you are looking for a simple and healthy Turkish meal, try Roka Restaurant. At Roka you will be served some kofte (Turkish meatballs), green salad, bread, and a drink of your choice. We recommend drinking Ayran, the Turkish yogurt drink, to go with your meal.

Kebabs are a signature Turkish dish. From Kizilay to Cankaya and Ulus and back, kebab restaurants can be found on almost every street in Ankara. Order a durum, a doner kebab wrap, if you need a quick fix while on the go. Otherwise, sit down and enjoy an iskender kebab, or the classic doner kebab.

Copyright @2012 Middle East Backpacking Guide

Tunis, the capital of Tunisia, is often overlooked by backpackers visiting some more popular destinations in the region. It has gone through some major changes in terms of politics in the past year, and if anything, this should be encouraging to travelers. Tunisia is one of the best places to backpack in the Middle East, as it is a country filled with an interesting history and scenic views of the Mediterranean.

With international flights running from London to Tunis a few times a day, as well as from other European hubs, Tunisia is only a few hours away from Europe. For a relatively small country, it may be surprising to find out that Tunisia has several international airports, as well as smaller airports that service low cost charter flights from Europe.

Accommodations

The Ariha Hotel in Tunis is located in a residential part of the city, close to the city center. The 7 level hotel is quite modern and offers amenities to ensure your comfort during your stay there. There is air conditioning throughout the hotel, two elevators for those with a lot of luggage, and even an underground parking garage. There is also a bar and restaurant on the premises as well as free wi fi in the hotel. Room prices begin at about $42 USD per night and run upward from there.

Getting Around

Getting around Tunisia is relatively easy. The country’s highways resemble those of the United States, making the roads easy to navigate between cities. If you are not an experienced driver it is recommended that you take public transport or taxis. Be sure to agree on a price before you ride in a taxi, and try to study the typical fares before you get to Tunisia. Trains are the best way to travel from one Tunisian city to another. Buying a blue card costs 20 dinars (about $13 USD) for a week and allows you to travel throughout the country by train.

Matmata and Carthage

Matmata, located in the south of the country, is worth mentioning because it is the small village infamous for being Luke Skywalker’s home (Tatooine) in the Star Wars movies. The village is also known for its cave dwellings and unique architecture.

Carthage is arguably Tunisia’s most famous historical site. Carthage was a Pheonician and Punic city dating back to the 6th century BC. Hannibal was the most famous general of Carthage, and led several battles against the Romans. The Romans eventually destroyed the entire city and rebuilt it decades later. There are few ruins left here, but what is left of Carthage is worth seeing.

Sousse

Sousse is a historical city situated in northern Tunisia. It’s old city, or medina, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and exciting to walk through. You can perfect your haggling skills here and do some affordable shopping. All of the main sights of Sousse are contained within the medina, including the Great Mosque. The Great Mosque was built around 850 AD and though it is visually simple, the fact that it has been there for so long is intriguing.

Copyright @2012 Middle East Backpacking Guide

Bargaining is an integral part of most Middle Eastern cultures and something that can be both intimidating and easily misunderstood by travelers unaccustomed to the practice.

The key to being good at bargaining is understanding what purpose it serves – it is not about money or trying to maximize profit as many assume – but more about building relationships. These are some ways you can learn the art of bargaining to save money and see more when traveling in the Middle East.

• Browse Around First – You’ll have a better idea of what the costs of a particular item are if you do some comparison shopping so you know the right merchant to bargain with.
• Hide Your Interest – No matter how interested you might be in buying something, do your best to keep your feelings to yourself. Once you let on that you’re intent on buying something, it’s hard to drive a hard bargain.
• Engage In Conversation – Don’t be timid but rather engaging. You’ll learn a bit about the shopkeeper and some about yourself and in the end are much more likely to walk away with a good price.
• Go Close To Closing – Around closing time, or any non-peak times give you both time and more opportunity to bargain your way to a good price.
• Know The Local Discount – In some countries a 25% discount means you’ve struck a good deal while in other places that number can be as high at 50%. Learn the common prices and bargaining discounts from locals, online research, or your hostel or hotel owner.
• Don’t Feel Guilty – Many shopkeepers may try and use guilt to get you to stick to a higher price than you (or they) had intended. You probably aren’t rich and even if you were, you should get a fair price. Don’t allow yourself to think otherwise.
• Learn The Local Customs – Avoid taboos or gestures that might be harmless in your culture but offensive locally.
• You Can Always Say No And Walk Out – That is your most powerful bargaining tool.

You shouldn’t settle on a price you aren’t comfortable with and you’ll likely find many similar (or better) items at many nearby shops. Just keep looking and you’ll come across a shop where you find something you like, get a good conversation, and save some money too.

Copyright @2012 Middle East Backpacking Guide

Turkey is a backpackers delight, situated both in the Middle East and spanning two continents, there is more than plenty to offer travelers staying for trips both long and short. Most travelers come to Istanbul first and experience the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, and the famous Grand Bazaar (Kapali Carsi). Istanbul is quickly developing into a well worn backpacker destination with low budget hotels and several hostels appearing around town.

The hostel concept still hasn’t quite developed in Turkey but the cities of Istanbul, Izmir, Antalya, and the resort towns in between are where you’re most likely to find them. Renting an apartment or subletting are other popular methods of getting low cost accommodations.

Visas To Turkey

Tourists looking to obtain visas from most Western nations can usually do so at upon arrival at the airport for a small fee and a passport valid for at least 6 months. Travel within the country’s main ports of entry, (Istanbul, Izmir, and Antalya) are made easy with well developed metro and cable cars that run from the airports and across town. Taxis are also quite common and finding one with a working meter isn’t typically difficult.

Turkey is, in general, a fairly safe nation with a well established police and military system. Pickpockets are present and common at many of the major tourist sites but outside of these places aggravated theft and violent crime are extremely rare. Turks are very inquisitive towards travelers and may very well be interested in striking up a conversation with you no matter where you travel within the country.

• Costs outside of Istanbul are fairly inexpensive if you’re carrying dollars or Euros, although many in many of the beach and resort towns the prices are quickly rising.

To keep costs down however backpackers in Turkey can head to the little explored eastern parts of the country. Cities like Van, Gaziantep, and Trabzon are all culturally and ecologically diverse from one another, less expensive, and where you’ll see many aspects of Turkish heritage you would miss otherwise.

Stopping for a day or two to discover hidden Ankara is a good way to see Turkey’s capital city before heading to another very ancient site, Cappadoccia. This ancient city, where the dwellings were built right into the surrounding rock was first inhabited by the Hittites around the 6th century BC. Now an important part of Turkish tourism, backpackers would be remiss to neglect spending a nice in one of the hotels – that are actually located in the rock dwellings. Prices are fairly inexpensive outside of the summer months and it is a unique and awe-inspiring experience. From there you can expand your travels to include one of the best islands in Europe, Cyprus. The Turkish-administered north part of the island is easily accessible by budget airlines or a ferry boat taking off from the town of Tasucu in the south. Inexpensive and a unique experience you can see both the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus and the EU-member, Greek-majority south.

Copyright @2012 Middle East Backpacking Guide

Syria is a country with a terrible travel reputation although most anyone who goes there will quickly realize it’s not the terrifying place it is made out to be. It is important to note before making travel arrangements that a visa will be required prior to entry and that travelers with Israeli stamps in their passports will be denied entry. The process can be somewhat confusing so it is best to contact the Syrian embassy to get the current procedures for your nationality. Once there however you’ll find a vibrant culture with elements of East and West combined in a normalcy many travelers find unexpected.

Travel to Damascus can be done through the main airport there, aptly named Damascus International Airport. Travelers already backpacking in Turkey can take the more scenic and immensely interesting overland route by train or bus. The train routes, times, and conditions vary so you’ll need to make plans from one of the major Turkish cities close before departure. Bus is also an option but best done from one of the southern or eastern Turkish cities to avoid complete fatigue upon arrival in Damascus. The longest trips from Istanbul are about 30 hours and we don’t recommend you skimping on the price since the quality of the ride can vary greatly.

• Getting around Damascus via taxi is fairly easy and inexpensive, just be sure to look out for cabs with working meters (taxi stands are a good place to start) and be sure to negotiate a price before getting in the cab.

Hotels And Hostels In Syria

Most hotels will be able to give you rough cost estimates for common routes within the city, such as to the National Museum of Damascus, Mount Qassioun, and the Umayyad Mosque. Damascus has more tourists than the rest of Syria but you won’t find many of these sites overly crowded, especially if you head to them midday during the week. Typically, entry to any of these major touristic sites requires the payment of a nominal fee, but should break any budget travelers bank.

From Damascus, backpackers should consider taking a bus to the nearby town of Hama. It’s one of the most charming and visually attractive cities in Syria, with the river Orontes running right through the middle of the city. Hama is a relaxing spot, with some historical ruins that can be seen by bus or booked tour from town. Hama is best done for about 2 days, and backpackers should plan to make trips out to the famous Norias of Hama, a gigantic water wheel along the banks for the Orontes River.

Another recommended city to spend a few days in is Aleppo, to the north of Damascus. The city is a wonder of living history and a place you should definitely plan to stop at if you’ll be heading overland from Turkey into Syria. Aleppo is home to one of the largest open air markets in the world where commerce takes places at a rapid rate and much as it has for centuries. You’ll find a lot to tempt you here but be sure to drive a hard bargain. Anything more than 30% off is usually a good deal.

Copyright @2012 Middle East Backpacking Guide

Jordan is a varied and travel treasure for backpackers looking to explore the Middle East on a budget. From Petra to backpacking in Amman along with some of the most beautiful beaches along the Mediterranean Sea. Getting around Jordan is much easier in terms of organized tours than it is, for example, backpacking in Bahrain, and many other parts of the Middle East. Jordan is relatively well developed and has a good budget infrastructure including hostels, temporary apartment rentals for travelers, and budget accommodation in most towns and cities.

Beginning in Amman, backpackers should make their way to the Jabal al-Qal’a (Amman Citadel) for excellent photo opportunities. The Amman Citadel is over 5,000 years old and has been influenced by numerous cultures reaching as far back as the Neolithic Period. The Amman Citadel is one of the oldest continuously inhabited places on the planet and very affordable and accessible from Amman.

• Backpackers looking to learn more about the extensive history of Amman and the peoples who’ve lived in what is now Jordan are highly recommended to visit the National Archeological Museum.

Inside the National Archeology Museum in Amman you’ll find history, artifacts, and information dating back 10,000 years. There is also a bronze Dead Sea scroll along with hundreds of mysterious carvings and sculptures with unknown origins. Entrance to the museum has a nominal fee and is not particularly crowded during most weekdays.

Seeing Wadi Rum

Of course, one of the most beautiful sights in all of the Middle East not to be missed in Jordan are the sands of Wadi Rum. The rolling hills of red-hued sand stretches for kilometers and will take your breathe away. The Rum villages are popular with other tourists but if you get a bit away from the main strips you’ll get to see much of the natural Bedouin life as it has been for centuries. Wandering around this area, particularly if you’ve got a hotel or hostel to leave your gear in is an excellent way to see more of the local culture than you ever could otherwise.

• Backpacking in Petra and visiting the site is simply one of the most extraordinary wonders in all of the world, not just the Middle East. Organized tours can be easily found to the area that has become a bustling tourist attraction. The main draw of course is Petra itself, are the dwellings built right into the surrounding rocks. Petra was created around the 6th century B.C. by the Nabataean people and has now become a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Petra is worth at least 2 days, but be sure to budget for it as it is more expensive than most of the other parts of Jordan. The increased tourism and traffic to the area has allowed for inflated prices, some of which you can avoid by coming during the off-peak months of early spring or late fall. Jordan is an inexpensive, easily traveled, and varied destination for backpackers and budget travelers we highly recommend as part of a Middle East adventure or on its own as a single trip. Jordan won’t disappoint you.

Copyright @2012 Middle East Backpacking Guide

Over the last 10 years, for many travelers, Lebanon has been taken off the map. That reality is unfortunate for both Lebanon and many of the backpackers who avoid it due to the sporadic violence that has plague the country in recent history. Lebanon is home to numerous Roman ruins, a vibrant downtown in Beirut (once known at the Paris of the Middle East), and gorgeous beaches. Also, we’d be remiss not to mention the incredible cuisine throughout Lebanon which is a blend of Asian, Arab, and Mediterranean flavors.

Backpackers planning on going to Lebanon who have been backpacking in Israel, should remember to either use a separate passport or otherwise destroy the separate piece of paper containing the Israeli entry stamps. Visas  are typically easy to obtain for most citizens of Western Europe and the US, although it’s important to verify the specifics with your local embassy before making any reservations.

Things To Do In Beirut

Backpackers headed to Lebanon should make time to spend and enjoy backpacking in Beirut. The city has great nightlife and is a fun stop along any backpacking trail with active nightclubs, parties, dancing, and drinking. There are countless restaurants along the popular Place de l’Etoile where you can enjoy fine Lebanese dining before a night out on the town. The area is also a great place to hang out, drink coffee, or visit an Internet cafe during the day. This area is fairly safe, just be on the lookout for pickpockets and follow any good traveler common sense you would anywhere.

• Another very famous site and well worth a visit is the Baalbeck Temple. Home to Roman ruins thousands of years old, this city located in the eastern part of Lebanon is also a wonderful glimpse into the small town and farm like in the Lebanese countryside. The UNESCO World Heritage Site, Baalbeck is one of the best preserved Roman cities in the world. When visiting Baalbeck, it’s much like having the entire site to yourself as it’s often not too crowded due to the decreased tourism to Lebanon in general. Visiting Heliopolis (as it was known) is free, making it a great budget travel destination.

Another wonderful archeological site in Lebanon is Tyre. Since Lebanon is such a small country, all of these sites are just a short (and usually) cheap car or bus ride from Beirut. Tyre, where backpackers will find more extremely well-preserved Roman ruins, is a 3 hour drive and arrangements can often be made for $10 or less. The bus system in Lebanon is fairly well developed and can be navigated by most experienced travelers. Most budget hotels (hostels are hard to find outside of Beirut) can also help you make arrangements to many of Lebanon’s most popular sites can towns.

Finally, Lebanon is a culinary delight and we recommend eating at more than just the most expensive and more European restaurants. The street food and local cafes each serve up their own variety of Mediterranean ‘fusion’ cooking that’s both tasty and inexpensive. A great combination for backpackers in Lebanon.

Copyright @2012 Middle East Backpacking Guide

Backpackers traveling around the Middle East will need to plan their trip to Israel carefully, especially if you will be visiting other nearby nations such as Yemen or Iran. In any event, long term travelers and backpackers should make sure upon arrival into Israel, that their passport stamps are put on a blank, separate piece of paper. This is because many other Middle East counties will not allow those with Israeli stamps in their passports to enter. At immigration, most Israeli border officers will comply and stamp somewhere other than your passport for these reasons. Don’t neglect holding on to this piece of paper though, you will be asked for it when exiting the country.

Also, be prepared to have your bags thoroughly examined as well as be questioned by security, particularly if arriving at the Ben Gurion International Airport in Tel Aviv. It’s an experience that could be a bit jarring if you’re not expecting it, but answer all of the questions you are asked honestly and it shouldn’t be a terribly long experience. How long you are questioned will have a lot to do with the number of other stamps (particularly Arab) you have in your passport. On a brighter note, consider it an interesting travel story!

Security In Israel

Many people are often worried about the security once inside of Israel or when backpacking in Jerusalem. The truth of the matter is that public transportation inside of Israel, especially Tel Aviv is remarkably safe. Security controls and checks are in place throughout each city and, for travelers, don’t make it too terribly cumbersome to get around.

• As far as prices go, Israel is an expensive destination in the otherwise (relatively) inexpensive Middle East. Prices are similar to those in many major US cities and near where they are in Western Europe as is especially the case when backpacking in Tel Aviv.

Bargaining is acceptable in most markets and be careful to only pay in the local currency, shekel. Most people asking you for Euros or dollars are a tip-off you’re probably in the process of getting ripped off.

As far as accommodations go, Israel has a huge selection of hotels, hostels, and is a good country to Couchsurf in. The ease of booking and moving around in the country as well as the accessibility of tours are some of the best in the Middle East. Jerusalem is a popular destination and one that is well deserved. The home of three major religions in an expanse for a city, Jerusalem is a photographic, historical, and touristic marvel. The city itself is sectioned off between Israeli and Palestinian sections and it’s a good idea to check for any planned demonstrations before heading into town.

Backpackers might also be interested in a more relaxed pace for a few days and the Dead Sea coast can provide just that. You can look for hotels or smaller places to stay near Masada and visit the ruins there as well. Another destination we highly recommend is Jaffa, along the Mediterranean Coast and mainly an Arab city, wonderful to eat, swim, and relax.

Copyright @2012 Middle East Backpacking Guide

Egypt is one of the more popular countries on the Middle East backpacking route, especially Cairo in bit part due to the Pyramids of Giza. The tourism industry is Egypt is rapidly developing, although at a rather uneven pace. Most US, European, and Australian backpackers can get a tourist visa upon entry to the airport, which costs a small fee. Tourist visas are good for 3 months (for most travelers) but it’s a good idea to verify the requirements before booking any flights with the Egyptian consulate.

For those backpackers heading to Cairo, the main port for entry, you’ll find a wide variety of hostels and hotels to stay in but as is the case in much of the Middle East, you’ll find high and low budget accommodations – without a great deal in between.

• Guest houses are another good alternative to hotels and hostels, and you’ll be able to find a number of riads on most of the major booking sites like Hostelbookers.com.

Getting around in most cities, your easiest option logistically is taxi, although you’ll need to be prepared to bargain on a price. Try to avoid cabs without meters and make sure to agree upon a price before heading out. Those of you making your way to the Pyramids of Giza should try and book transportation through the hostel or hotel where you might pay a bit more, but will save time and get a stable price.

Pyramids Of Giza

The Pyramids are an exciting visit on a trip to Cairo, although they are rather hectic as many local merchants have descended upon it to take advantage of tourists and travelers. Get there early in the morning or very last thing in the day if possible to avoid the often annoying pitches and screams from all of the touts and vendors. Never try and cut corners by purchasing tickets or rides anywhere outside of the official booths.

Outside of Cairo, you’ll find local transportation much less stressful although not much more easy to navigate. Taxis are still in option in most larger-to-midsized towns, otherwise you’ll need to venture out on the local bus system. Just about every city in Egypt has a networked group of local buses that connect major points in each town. For connections in between cities, look up the local bus station connecting each city. Accommodations on the buses vary mostly by price, and it’s our recommendation not to skimp out on bus transportation. Comfort, safety, meals, and your general experience will all be enhanced by paying a few extra dollars on the already inexpensive Egyptian buses.

When planning your travels outside of Cairo and around the rest of Egypt, be sure to include Alexandria and Luxor. These two places are common second sights in Egypt and offer a less-crowded glimpse into the ancient history of the country. Ruins like the Citadel of Alexandria, the Valley of the Kings, and the Temples of Abu Simbel would be a shame to miss. These places can be done as a day (or better) 2-3 day excursions outside of Cairo.

Copyright @2012 Middle East Backpacking Guide